Lelong, Lucien

(1918-1948)

   Born in Paris, Lelong was the son of parents who owned a small couture house. Their trademark was their unique ability in designing with fur. Lelong took over the family business after World War I and transformed the house into one that focused on the simplicity of a silhouette, luxurious fabrics, and superb workmanship. Noted for his early recognition of the importance of marketing, Lelong used his double-L logo to influence his designs as well as refining the packaging design of his perfumes and cosmetics. He was a master of the use of knits and bias to shape the body in the most complementary fashion. An active member of high society, Lelong socialized with the women he dressed and did not miss the opportunity to capitalize on his name. Lelong was the first Paris couturier to launch a ready-to-wear line. A true leader, Lelong negotiated with the Germans and was successful in haute couture remaining in Paris rather than being moved to Berlin. It was during this time that Pierre Balmain and Christian Dior headed a design team for the house of Lelong. Believing that only he had the ability to carry out the vision of the house, Lelong closed its doors in 1948.